Cinque Terre

Posted by , 14 June 2014

A few days by the Italian seaside – beaches, warm water, good food in a picturesque setting.

As with our stay at Lake Como, I had heard so much about Cinque Terre but in the end had no real idea or expectation of what it would be like. Yes, I knew there would be five villages by the sea but had no idea what a dramatic setting it would.

Our base during our stay was Monterosso al Mare. It really feels like two separate villages, as the village is separated by a headland with an access tunnel through it (and steeper walking paths over the top). We were staying in an apartment on one side, which meant all of our journeys started through narrow, old lanes – quieter in the morning but becoming progressively busier and noisier as tourists started crowding in.

Don’t believe what everyone says about driving down to the villages. Once we had figured out the right road, it was not bad. Narrow roads, but not much worse than driving on narrow country roads anywhere else and if you approach it with the right attitude (and car) then you could say it was fun! There was even a parking station near our apartment.

The beaches are well organised – all of the good ones are clean but roped off for paying guests only, with lounges and umbrellas and various watercraft for hire. Despite the picturesque setting, this would make a good holiday destination by itself – beach, warm water, good food.

The best way to get around is by train. Amazingly, a train line runs along the coast line with a station in each of the villages. They’re not necessarily frequent, but it was cheap and easy to get around once you figure it out. We did catch the ferry to Riomaggiore – the furthest village – on the first day but that was mainly to see all of the villages from the sea. The other way is by walking – there are established walking trails all along the coast here – but some of the them were closed for repairs, and besides it was really hot!!

The villages are each very different with their own character. Some – like Riomaggiore – are bigger. Manarola is probably the least accessible, as it is high on a cliff without direct access to the water like the others. Each of the villages follows the pattern of old Italian villages, with an old church, a central piazza and multi-coloured houses perched on the terrain with narrow lanes running throughout the villages – many involving steep climbs or even stairs.

Admittedly, the Cinque Terre is very touristy – not to the point of spoiling the atmosphere but it’s easy to imagine the villages being overrun in summer. Although we found it busy during the day, it was still quiet enough in the morning to find a cafe for breakfast and a good restaurant for dinner.


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